All you need to know about Speaker Cable

A speaker cable is a type of electrical cable designed to connect amplifiers or receivers to loudspeakers, allowing audio signals to travel between them. The quality and characteristics of the speaker cable can influence the performance of your audio system significantly, especially if you're dealing with long cable runs or high-power systems.

The main reason for choosing the correct speaker cable is down to its electrical capability, and if it’s suitable for the power you wish to send through it. An under-specced cable will not only compromise the sound quality but can cause damage to your equipment and can even be a fire risk.

Keeping to layman's language rather than electrical calculations and formulas, let's take a look at speaker cable, the terminology used, and the different requirements you will find when using it for home audio or PA equipment.

1

KEY COMPONENTS OF SPEAKER CABLE

Made from multiple strands of copper wire that are encased in a plastic covering or insulation, and usually a pair (2-cores) that are identical. Speaker cable will either have the covering of those cores joined together, which is referred to as a ‘figure of 8’ cable (looked at end-on it resembles the number 8), or it will be two individual sheathed cores inside a second protective covering, which is known as ‘double insulated’.

They both do the same job, just that double insulated offers more physical durability so it is the better choice for professional applications. On higher current speaker systems it also helps to have the cores separated to combat heat buildup and inductance, and the single-rounded outer sheathing allows for professional connectors such as Speakon or Jack plugs to be used.

  • Conductors

    This is the core of the cable, the flexible metal part inside the plastic outer coating. The conductors are usually made from strands of fine copper due to its excellent conductivity. Higher quality cables might use oxygen-free copper (OFC), which reduces oxidation and improves conductivity slightly, or even silver-plated copper for high-performance setups.

  • Gauge

    This is a physical measurement of the cross-sectional area of the conductor. If you look at a cable end-on it will look like a circle within a circle, and the gauge is the diameter of the inner circle or conductor part. In the UK it's given in mm², such as 0.75mm² or 2.5mm².

    Depending on the source of your cable, it may instead use the American Wire Gauge system, or AWG, which is an imperial measurement of the total cable diameter. Most cable will actually state both for convenience.

    You will need to consider the physical limitations of the connection points on your specific equipment when choosing cable, as speakers or amps with push-style spring tag terminals can't accept a cable diameter much over 1.5mm².

    It is also worth noting that cable gauge is always given for a single conductor, so in the case of say a 1.5mm² speaker cable which is supplied as twin cable (for a positive and negative connection), this would be sold as 2x 1.5mm².

  • Strands

    Speaker cables use stranded wire instead of solid-core wire. This improves flexibility and makes it easier to work with. Cable will often include the number of strands as part of its gauge rating, for example, 24/0.5mm² would mean there are 24 individual strands of 0.5mm² copper wire in each of the two conductor cores.

  • Insulation

    The insulation surrounds the conductors and ensures that no electrical contact is made with other components, preventing short circuits. Common insulation materials include PVC, polyethylene, or Teflon, and different materials are used for a variety of reasons, from cost, flexibility, damage protection, and even specialist coverings designed to produce minimal smoke and fumes if burned (LSF cable).

  • Polarity Markings

    Most speaker cables have some form of marking or colouring to distinguish between the positive (+) and negative (-) conductors. The copper cable itself has no polarity or directional requirements, but the markings help ensure you maintain the correct polarity of your speakers (i.e., making sure the speaker cones move in sync with each other) when connecting them to the amplifier.

All you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Cable Size Conversion Chart All you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Cable Size Conversion Chart

All you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Cable TypesAll you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Cable Types
2

HOW SPEAKER CABLES WORK

When an amplifier sends an audio signal to a speaker, it does so in the form of alternating current (AC). The signal travels from the amplifier output through the cable’s copper conductors to the speaker's voice coil, which uses the positive and negative swing of the signal to create a magnetic field that opposes and interacts with the speaker's permanent magnet, resulting in a linear (forward and backward) movement. This action pushes and pulls the speaker cone in and out, producing sound by altering the air pressure in front of it.

The goal of speaker cable is to transfer as much of the amplifier’s output signal to the speaker as possible, using the minimum effort possible, without too much loss along the way. And by loss we mean exactly that, so, for example, let's say you have a measurement of 25V AC at the amplifier output and you connect a speaker to it with 10m of skinny cable, you may lose 1 to 2 volts by the time it's at the speaker due to that cables small conductor size and its high resistance. Double that length to 20m and you get even more voltage drop. You get the idea.

Using thicker cable means more copper, which gives you a higher current handling capacity and lower electrical resistance to significantly reduce this loss, and allow the amplifier to run at lower output which aids with both electrical efficiency and overall sound quality.

As a science bench example, you could take two identical amplifiers and matched speaker sets and connect one with 10m runs of 0.5mm² (20 AWG) cable, and the second with 2.5mm² (14 AWG). Feed the amps with the same source signal and turn both the amplifiers up to 50% volume. You will find the system with the heavier cable is significantly louder, with a fuller tone to its sound, with deeper bass and clearer treble. It’s a basic analogy, but the heavier cable is allowing the system to breathe easier, with more voltage reaching the speakers using less current from the amplifier, allowing them to convert more energy to sound while using the same settings.

The efficiency of the speakers also plays a significant part in that relationship, but that's going way off-topic. You can read more about speaker sensitivity and efficiency in our 'Guide to Matching Speakers and Amplifiers'.

You can use budget gear or high-quality audio equipment and it won't make any difference if you then compromise it with the wrong cables, as you are introducing a serious limitation into the circuit.

3

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPEAKER CABLE

As just discussed, the thickness or gauge of a cable affects its ability to carry power over distance. Thicker cored cables can handle more voltage and current with less resistance.

Most home amplifiers and speakers will actually work with cable as thin as 0.75mm². However, it's generally recommended to go with either 1.5mm² or even 2.5mm² as the extra copper is so much kinder to the amplifier output and will provide a big improvement in sound quality, especially if running larger diameter woofers which require more current when producing low bass.

If you are dealing with PA amplifiers and speakers then it’s even more important to use decent cable, as it's highly likely you will be running this equipment at higher volumes and for extended periods. This is when poorly rated cables become hot and can cause serious damage to your equipment by affecting the loading to the amplifier, which will lead to all sorts of signal distortion issues and even amplifier output stage damage.

Low-cost stereo systems often include ‘free’ cable which many people hook up and use permanently, when in fact it’s only supplied to ‘get you started’. It’s common to see 7/0.2mm² - 24 AWG cable (bell wire) included which is both physically and electrically inadequate for this type of dynamic power connection. It’s easily damaged and will strangle the power delivery through its high resistance, causing the amp to work much harder, whilst lowering the available volume and frequency range.

Unless you are really into Hi-Fi and all the fantasy that comes with it, you will be buying speaker cable to be reliable and to provide you good quality sound without damage to your equipment. You should look at what’s available and what is recommended, and make an informed decision. You don't need the most expensive, but you also really don't want the cheapest either.

We will also mention here it may that speaker cables are only required for the connection between an amplifier and passive (non-powered) speakers. Active (powered) speakers operate with an internal amplifier to which their speakers are pre-connected internally. For active speakers, you will only require signal cables.

All you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Connections on a Power AmplifierAll you need to know about Speaker Cable - Speaker Connections on a Power Amplifier
4

CONNECTORS AND TERMINOLOGY

Speaker cables can come with various types of connectors at the ends depending if they are for home or professional use, though many setups simply use bare wire connections.

Some of the connection types you can find on speaker cable are:

  • Banana Plugs

    Also referred to as 4mm binding post plugs, these are easy to plug into speaker terminals and ensure a secure, corrosion-free connection. They are popular with Hi-Fi enthusiasts and allow the use of a thicker cable that may have been too wide for a bare wire connection.

    The equivalent socket is a binding post. These accept the banana plug, or the socket body unscrews to allow the use of both spade connectors or a bare wire, making them a versatile option. You will find them on many good-quality domestic amplifiers and speakers.

  • Spade Connectors

    These flat, forked connectors provide a more secure connection than bare wire and are commonly used in professional setups.The bare cable is crimped or soldered into the body of the spade.

    Spade terminals require either a binding post or screw terminals. Some Hi-Fi enthusiasts prefer them over Banana Plugs as they don't stick out the back of the amplifier.

  • Bare Wire

    The most basic option, where the conductor is exposed and inserted directly into the speaker and amp terminals. Over time, however, bare wires can oxidise, which might degrade sound quality. Care must be taken during the connection of bare wire ends so as not to have any stray copper strands as these can cause shorting issues.

    Many lower-cost amplifiers and speakers will only accept bare wire as they are fitted with spring-loaded ‘push-in’ cable clamps, which will limit you to about 1.5mm² cable, though most equipment only offering those connections will be unlikely to be high-output so it will be fine.

  • 6.35mm (1/4") Jack

    Found on many PA amplifiers and speakers, a standard mono jack connection offers a sturdy and durable connection and allows for thick cable to be used.

    The matching 6.35mm jack socket is a tried and tested design that's also found on electrified musical instruments, both for signal connection and for amp-to-speaker cabinet connections.

    It’s due to this fact that you must be vigilant when buying jack cables, and ensure you are using a proper 2-core speaker cable and not a single core with shield cable used for low-level audio signals, as these do not handle speaker level current well at all and are likely to melt.

  • Speakon

    The industry standard for high power PA speakers and amplifiers. These large locking plugs and sockets come in both 2-pole (NL2) and 4-pole (NL4) designs for easy doubling of cable runs and interlinking of passive speaker rigs. They are usually found with either 1.5mm² or 2.5mm² cores.

    If you have the option for Speakon on your equipment you should be using it, as they offer the most secure connection and the heaviest-duty cable type.

  • Conversion Cables

    It’s important to understand with speaker cable that the connector types are just for convenience and durability. What this means is they are interchangeable to suit different equipment.

    So for example you may have an amplifier that's best output choice is 6.35mm jack, while your speakers may have Speakon sockets. That’s perfectly fine, and you can either buy or make a cable with those specific plugs to each end. Just you ensure the positive and negative sides of the cable are correct into the plugs.

All you need to know about Speaker Cable - OFC Speaker Cable with 4mm Banana PlugsAll you need to know about Speaker Cable - OFC Speaker Cable with 4mm Banana Plugs

5 SPEAKER CABLE LENGTH AND RESISTANCE

The longer the cable length used, and the thinner the cable used, the more electrical resistance there will be to the signal you are trying to push from an amplifier to a speaker.

This resistance reduces the current flow and often causes a drop in the voltage reaching the speaker, which means a loss in power, or in the case of a speaker, a drop in output volume.

You also have a further loss which occurs when the extra voltage and current required from the amplifier to overcome the high resistance starts to exceed the capability of the cable used, which causes it to get hot, introducing yet more resistance, and a physical degradation that can even lead to fire in extreme cases. That’s on top of the damage being caused to your amplifier, either through overcurrent or overvoltage to its power section.

Voltage, current, and resistance are all directly linked (Ohms Law). The resistance of a conductor is influenced by factors such as the materials, temperature, and physical dimensions (length and cross-sectional area or volume).

Voltage capability for audio purposes generally isn't an issue, as even the skinniest speaker cable will often be rated at several hundred volts, and the average audio amplifier is usually putting out between 10V to 70V. The problem will come from the high resistance of that skinny cable and how it restricts the current, making the amp work so much harder.

Let's use the good old water-in-a-hose analogy to try and make things clearer:

  • The Hosepipe (Cable)

    The hosepipe is your speaker cable and can vary in length to suit your needs. A long hose requires more water pressure to give the same results as a shorter one as the water has farther to travel and is in contact with more material which will be working against it.

  • Water Pressure (Voltage)

    The pressure of water going through the hose represents the voltage, or how open your tap is (your amplifier volume). It's a variable figure, as the supply device (amplifier) will have a maximum output, and can put out any voltage between zero and that maximum.

  • Water Flow (Current in Amps)

    This is the flow rate of the water through the hose. This is the flow of electrons for electrical cable, which will be directly affected by the cable core sizing, the number of strands, and the conductor material.

  • Obstructions (Resistance in Ohms)

    This is any restrictions to the hose, getting in the way of the water delivery and causing the available pressure to drop. It could be dirt in the hose, or a foot on the pipe, but the results will be the same. Electrically this is the friction of the passing electricity against the materials used to make the cable. The higher the resistance, the lower the current, and vice-versa.

  • Water Output Power (Wattage)

    The power or energy of the water coming out of the hose. The volume (a trickle or a solid flow) and the pressure (gentle pour or powerful jet) are the results of the physical factors that the hose itself has introduced, and the power available to you is the culmination of these two factors. (Volts x Amps = Watts)

    To increase the wattage coming out of your pipe, you need to increase the voltage and current. In an audio system this is dictated by the amplifier output capability and the cable that has been used. (we are excluding the speakers and their effect on the signal for this example).

    In more practical and basic terms, when it comes to speaker cable, use the heaviest gauge you can do and you won't go wrong. Overkill is fine, and the more copper you can use the more efficient the system will be.


6 WHAT ABOUT CABLE IMPEDANCE?

Cable does have its own impedance which does play a part of course, as do AC-induced capacitance and inductance, but these are complex subjects that have entire books written on them, and most of them just read as utter gibberish to the average person.

If you are running hundreds of metres of cable in an installation, cable capacitance for example is perhaps worth looking into, but for a 10m run in your living room or to your PA cabs, it’s meaningless.

For those who just want to hook up their speakers so they sound good and don't blow their amp up, the wider electrical characteristics and theory of electro-mechanical relationships really are beyond overkill. It will mean absolutely nothing to anyone who isn't really into the subjects, and that's not what these guides are for.

This information is available and out there if you need it of course, but it really serves no purpose when you want to buy an off-the-shelf Speakon cable for your PA, or some speaker flex for your home stereo, as the the cable will be the correct type, and tolerances of the equipment you will be plugging it into just aren't that exact.

For consumer audio and professional PA, you will likely be buying either pre-made cables or cable on a roll, and all you need to consider really is that its gauge/current capacity is up to the job, and that its a durable enough construction for the task it’s performing. Your only impedance concerns should be focussed on the correct matching of your amplifier and speakers.

Should you wish to read a bit more on the subject, you can take a look at this article - What is impedance in Speakers


7 KEY CONSIDERATIONS FOR SPEAKER CABLE

Cable Quality: While you don’t need to buy the most expensive cable, going too cheap can lead to poor insulation, low strand counts, higher resistance, and reduced durability, all of which can impact your system’s performance.

Consider Your Setup's Needs: A basic sound system in your living room won’t need high-end cables, but if you’re building a large home theatre or professional audio setup, it pays to invest in good-quality, well-sized cables.

This is especially important if you are running cables in-wall, as it's not something you want to have to redo should you get problems or wish to upgrade your system at a later date.

Avoid Excess Length: Using excessively long cables when you don’t need them will introduce unnecessary resistance, and can cause signal delay issues with multi-speaker systems. Measure your space and use cables that are as short as is practically possible.

Use Matched Lengths: Now to some forum junkies this may or may not be a somewhat controversial statement, but electrically, it makes sense to keep speaker cables a matched length.

What we mean by that is if your amp is feeding two speakers, and one is 4m away while the other is 10m, you should ideally use 10m cables to both. This keeps the loading and resistance the amplifier sees for each speaker as identical.


8 FINAL THOUGHTS

Speaker cables play a critical role in connecting your amplifier or receiver to your speakers, but in most cases, it’s more about getting the right thickness and length for your setup rather than splashing out on premium options.

There’s a lot of marketing around "audiophile-grade" speaker cables, often with hefty price tags. While there can be minor improvements in signal quality with premium cables, for most people, a decent-quality standard cable will suffice. Spending hundreds on exotic materials or cable designs is unnecessary unless you’re operating in a high-end, precision-audio environment.

For home usersand general PA usage, a mid-range copper cable of the appropriate gauge will generally deliver excellent results without breaking the bank.

Measure your space, consider your system’s power requirements and the connection types it has available, factor in any possible future upgrades, and if in doubt, ask!